Read here for getting supplies ready.
This is the diameter of the trees nearest our home that are suitable for tapping. If a tree has more than a 21" diameter, it will support 2 taps, which we've done in a few places.
These are the leaf buddings. When the tree buds out for real, the sap takes on a really, really bad taste, called bud taint. Sap will keep flowing, but you DO NOT want this sap to contaminate your syrup boil. It smells fine as sap too, but when boiled down is tastes like dead mouse smells. NOT KIDDING. So, trust me, pay attention to these buds as the tapping time goes along. We usually get about two weeks of flow.
The leaf buds are also the best way to identify maple species in winter time. I'll do another post on that in the future.
This is so easy, our nine year old can do it. Chad is helping though. Drill the hole at a good height for you to reach, a few inches away from last years taps, and about 2-3 " deep. Be sure to tilt up so the sap runs out. Best place to drill is the south side of the tree under a big branch - south side warms up fastest, sap will be moving to the branch.
This is a good bore hole.
This is the spile.
Push it in with your fingers.
Hammer it. Lightly on the flat part, not the end of the spout.
These hooks were put on by the folks who mailed them backwards from how I like them, so I had to take it out and re-orient the hook. If using a bag you can leave the hook off entirely.
Perfect.
Hang bucket, attach lid.
Ta da!
Or hang the bag. It doesn't need a lid (and is WAY cheaper!)
Bonus picture: this tree? Glorious maple that it is, it is a bad choice for tapping. First, part of it is rotten and actually smashed down and broke things. Second, ALL sap from it is tainted. Gross. Any of it will ruin the pot of syrup. The taint tastes like Ritz crackers with a chaser of spoiled Brussels sprouts.